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The Centre for Resilience and Sustainable Development (CRSD) at the University of Cambridge, in partnership with the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC) and the UK's Textile Recycling Association (TRA), has launched pioneering research on reforming international textile trade code (HS Code).

The research report, Reforming textile trade codes to be fit for purpose for the circular and sustainable textile economy, proposes modernised HS Codes to better support the expanding textile circular economy.

Julia Ettinger, Secretary General of EuRIC stated: 

"Current customs trade codes create unnecessary barriers for the textile recycling sector that hinder its transition to a circular economy at a time when sustainable textile management is more crucial than ever. This research project offers practical proposals for HS code reform that we can present to governments to grow this vital sector” 

Through extensive consultation with industry stakeholders and using CRSD's innovative Cambridge Policy Boot Camp methodology, the research team identified seven practical reforms that could be implemented by industry, national governments and internationally at the World Customs Organisation to modernise the Harmonized System (HS) codes:

  • Creating new specific codes to differentiate between textile waste, recycling materials, and second-hand clothing
  • Establishing clear contamination benchmarks for shipments
  • Developing dedicated codes for garments made from recycled materials
  • Implementing a specialised textile stream in the Authorised Economic Operator program

These proposals aim to reduce legal ambiguity, lower costs, and incentivise textile reuse and recycling.  

These results underscore the CPBC's unique ability to convene diverse stakeholders, enabling them to analyze complex challenges, identify untapped resources within existing systems, and anticipate potential ripple effects of proposed solutions.

Professor Nazia M. Habib, Founder and Director of CRSD stated: 

“This trade codes project is yet another example of the power of co-creation and genuine collaboration between academia and industry. We would encourage TRA and EuRIC and other similar associations to work closely with our Centre to apply co-creation methods for collective action.” 

Alan Wheeler, CEO of the TRA stated: 

"This isn't just about changing codes – it's about building the foundation for a more circular textile industry. The recommendations provide a clear pathway for reform that could support the sector's ability to scale up circular economy initiatives. We feel fortunate to be invited to join Professor Habib and Dr. Parris’ action research, utilising the Cambridge Policy Boot Camp (CPBC) to identify 'needs' and 'opportunities' to advance the sector's reform agenda”.

The Report, drafted by Dr Hannah Parris, CRSD,  comes at a critical time as the World Customs Organisation - the international organisation that manages HS Codes - prepares for its next review cycle in 2027. 

For more information or interview requests, please contact: crsd@landecon.cam.ac.uk or info@euric.org or Alan.wheeler@textilerecyclingassociation.org 

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